山，並不是走走而已
「沒有他們就沒有我們。」簡單的一句話，是完攀七頂峰成功者的謙和，也是他們心中最深處的感動。因為就是有這麼一群人，在媒體的鎂光燈下，總是容易被遺忘的......
「伍玉龍、伍玉龍~你現在位置在哪裡？」
「明天會有暴風雪，你聽到了嗎？」
2008年11月，七頂峰領隊伍玉龍在高達8,201公尺的卓奧友峰一度失聯23小時，在基地營駐守的中華民國山岳協會梁明本秘書長，不斷透過訊號微弱的收發器，嘗試與那失聯的隊員取得回覆。
「還好，最後知道只是通訊設備出了問題，人總是平安的。」梁明本笑著說。
紀錄片上，幾乎每講一句話就喘一口氣的梁明本，在這樣高海拔的低氣低壓上尚須保持輕醒的腦袋，安全協助攻頂的3位隊員上下山，這個幕後推手的職位，還真不是那麼好當。
行前策劃 不只有這樣
不同於遊山玩水的旅行團，要策劃如此龐大的世界級探險形成，除了資金的籌設，要考量的事情，還有好多好多。以最後完成的世界最高峰聖母峰為例，在預測規劃與實際狀況之間不停進行審慎考量的梁明本，所耗費的精神心力，相較於完攀的隊員，可說是有過之而無不及。
「其實在2008年，當他們完成卓奧友峰無氧、無雪巴協作的攀登淬鍊時，他們的體力已經不用我再去顧慮了。」梁明本憶道，「而雖然聖母峰只高出卓奧友峰600多公尺，可是在這樣的高海拔環境，任何狀況都是不容小觑的，所以在團隊目標設定的規劃與執行上，跟之前的幾頂又都是完全不一樣的。」
所謂團隊目標的設定，指的是當趟的完攀，欲計劃幾個人可以執行完成。以隊員狀況及氧氣計畫來思考，此次的攀行便配置了4名共有14年登頂聖母峰紀錄的雪巴，以他們豐富的經驗來協助隊員的攀登，並確保其安全性。而團隊目標計畫中所包含的氧氣裝備系統，專業雪巴人員的請用配置等，亦都須將人力、資金、物力等的狀況調配給考量進去。
當然，人總是要休息的，休養計畫的安排可也不得馬虎。在高度適應行程結束後，隊員須下降到4,410公尺的丁波切(Dingboche)休養幾天，在儲蓄體力的同時，再認真思考與調整攻頂的心態。另請榮總專業研究高山症狀的高偉峰醫師，至當地與隊員會合，瞭解隊員的身體狀況，進而提供適當的諮詢與醫療協助。
事在人為之後，則是聽天命。除了歐都納付費取得的天訊提供外，另與台大大氣科學系林博雄教授合作，由
其專業的分析與指導，與「人算不”如天算」的最終關卡來與之抗衡。而利用天訊的策略則是在天氣即將轉好之時就由基地營出發往上移動，最佳天氣的前壹天設定為登頂日，預留最佳的天氣時間，讓攀登最危險時段「登頂後下撤」時使用，以確保攀登隊員的安全。
而這些，都還只能算是行前規劃，真正的挑戰，是到了現場才正要開始。.....(未完)
Mountains, More Than Climbing-
“We couldn’t make it without them.” With these few words, the Seven Summit braves show their modesty and appreciation to a group of people who are always ignored in the spotlight.
“Yu-long Wu, Yu-long Wu, report your location.”
“A blizzard is coming tomorrow. Do you copy me?”
In November, 2008, the leader of the Seven Summit Team, Yu-long wu, once lost contact on the 8201 meters high Cho Oyu for up to 23 hours. Ming-ben Liang, who was quartered in the base camp, tried to get into contact with Yu-long wu.
“Thank God. It’s just something wrong with the telecommunication equipment. Yu was safe,” said Ming-ben Liang smilingly.
In the documentary film, Ming-ben Liang, who took a breath almost after every sentence, needed to remain clear-headed in low air pressure base camp to help the three team members to safely complete the ascent. This task is far from easy.
More Than a Pre-departure Plan
Different from a sight-seeing tour group, such a world-class expedition team requires a lot of preparations like raising the fund and etc. Take the ascent to Mt. Everest
for instance. Ming-ben Liang wholeheartedly devoted himself to deliberating upon the pre-departure plan and the actual situation. The efforts he made were no less than the expedition team members.
“Actually, since they successfully conquered Cho Oyu without oxygen supply and Sherpa’s guidance in 2008, I have been assured of their physical vigor.” Liang recalled. “Though Mt. Everest is higher than Cho Oyu by only 600 meters or so, any accidents are not allowed in such a high altitude area. So, the plan and objective set up for this team are totally different from before.
To set up an objective is to estimate the number of people who can cooperate to make a successful ascent.
Concerning team members’ condition and the oxygen supply plan, four experienced Sherpas were arranged to guide the team to safely ascend Mt. Everest. Including Oxygen supply and equipment provided for Sherpas, matters like working staff, fund, and material recourses should all be taken into account.
It goes without saying that people need to rest. Rest plan should not be carelessly made. After adapting to high altitude, the team has to descend to Dingboche (4410 m) to rest for a few days. While restoring strength, they can deliberate and adjust their attitude towards the ascent. Dr. wei-fong Gao is invited to meet the team to check their physical condition and provide consultation and medical support.
Man proposes and God disposes. Besides the weather forecast equipment purchased by Atunas, Prof. Bo-syong Lin of Department of Atmospheric Sciences,
National Taiwan University, also joins to offer professional analysis and instructions. The weather forecast equipment assists the team in setting the day before the finest day as the ascent day and reserving the finest time for the team after they “descend from the summit” at the most dangerous point.
These are only part of pre-departure plan. The real challenge starts from the arrival at the climbing site.
(更多精采內容請見200909國家公園季刊)
留言列表
